Xiangyunsha (Gambiered Silk)
Xiangyunsha, also known as gambiered silk, is a naturally dyed silk fabric refined through long cycles of sun-drying and river-mud finishing — producing a deep black sheen shaped by nature’s quiet forces over time.
Crafted on a foundation of pure mulberry silk.
The fabric is dyed using natural extracts derived from the traditional Shuliang plant.
The formulation and application are carefully adjusted by experienced artisans with years of practice.
After dyeing, the silk is laid across fields to naturally dry.
Under the combined influence of sunlight and humidity
the fabric goes through slow, repeated cycles of soaking and sun-drying — often more than thirty times, guided by weather and seasonal variation.
depending on weather and seasonal variation.
Final Mud-Dyeing & Oxidation
A layer of hand-applied river mud unique to this region is applied to one side of the fabric.
In sunlight, the mud interacts with the plant-based dyes, triggering natural oxidation that gradually creates the deep, luminous black characteristic of Xiangyunsha.
The fabric is then left to rest — often for five months or more — allowing the color to fully oxidize and stabilize.
Only after this extended stillness does the silk undergo a gentle sand wash to restore softness and enhance resilience.
Each piece requires more than six months to complete. Xiangyunsha (Gambiered Silk) is truly a material shaped by time and nature.
Fabric Characteristics & Performance
Material & Finish
Gambiered silk is a plant-dyed silk fabric finished through traditional river-mud processes, creating a distinctive surface depth and natural variation.
Strength & Structure
Stronger and more resilient than untreated silk, it offers better stability for structured garment design while maintaining a refined handfeel.
Breathability & Drying
It remains breathable and dries quickly after wear, making it comfortable across seasons.
Natural Resistance
The plant-based dyeing process contributes to natural resistance against insects.
Color, Luster & Dual Tone
River mud dyeing produces a luminous black surface, while the reverse reveals a warm, copper-toned brown—an unmistakable hallmark of the craft.
Natural Variation
Slight variations in shade, sheen, and texture are inherent to the hand process. These are not defects but signatures of artisanal character.
Hand-Applied Mud Dyeing Characteristics
Because river mud is applied by hand, the reverse (brown-toned) side may show areas of uneven coloration, darker patches, or subtle variations where the gambier dye penetrates differently. These characteristics are a natural result of the hand-applied mud-dyeing process and are considered a normal and authentic expression of the craft.
Gentle washing
Xiang Yun Silk is dyed using plant extracts and river mud, without chemical fixatives. Hand wash gently in cool water.
No detergents are required — clean water is sufficient to remove perspiration and light odors.
Natural changes
During the first few washes, a small amount of color or residue may be released.
This is a natural result of plant and river mud dyeing. With continued gentle care, the fabric will stabilize, while its surface becomes softer and more luminous over time.
Drying & storage
Air dry in shade or soft sunlight. Avoid prolonged exposure to strong heat.
Store in a dry, ventilated space. The fabric’s breathability and structure help maintain freshness during wear and storage.